Range
error codes,
read properly.

A burner was asked to light and the range did not sense a flame, or the spark kept firing after the flame was there. Moisture or food in the igniter and a cap sitting out of place are ruled out before the spark module or a switch is replaced. A smell of gas outranks any code: leave the house and phone the gas utility from outside.

Usually leads to

Burner and igniter repair

Shows up as

Range Burner Won't LightRange Burner Keeps ClickingUneven Range Burner FlameRange Gas Smell

A radiant element, a coil or an induction zone did not heat the way the control expected, or ran hotter than it should. The pan, the switch behind the knob and the wiring to the element come first; on induction, the power board and the coil under the glass are checked next. A zone that will not switch off, or a crack in the glass, means the breaker goes off before anything else.

Usually leads to

Surface element and glass top repair

Shows up as

Range Surface Element Not HeatingInduction Range Not Detecting PanRange Burner Won't Turn OffRange Glass Top Cracked

The oven under the burners called for heat and the cavity did not warm the way the control planned. On an electric oven a bake or broil element that has burned open is the usual cause; on a gas oven the igniter and the valve it opens come first. The wiring and the relay are checked before the board takes the blame.

Usually leads to

Bake and broil elements

Shows up as

Range Oven Not HeatingRange Broiler Not WorkingRange Oven Temperature Wrong

The oven sensor sent a reading the control would not accept, or one that climbed well past the setting. A loose plug or a sensor that has drifted is ruled out before the control board, and a temperature that keeps rising means the range is switched off at the breaker first.

Usually leads to

Temperature sensor and thermostat repair

Shows up as

Range Oven Temperature WrongRange Oven Not HeatingRange Error Code

The oven door lock did not move to where the control sent it, or its switch reported the wrong position. It shows up most around self-clean; the latch, its switches, the hinges and how squarely the door closes are looked at before the lock motor is changed.

Usually leads to

Door hinge, gasket and lock repair

Shows up as

Range Self-Clean ProblemsRange Oven Door Won't CloseRange Error Code

The convection fan behind the oven's back wall, or the cooling fan that keeps heat away from the controls, did not spin as fast as the control expected. Grease on the blade and a loose plug are checked first; a tired motor, and on the cooling side a thermal fuse, come after.

Usually leads to

Convection fan repair

Shows up as

Range Oven Temperature WrongRange Oven Not HeatingRange Control Panel Not Responding

The display, the main board or the induction power board lost contact with one another, or one of them failed its own self-check. A power dip, a loose cable or moisture from a boil-over is ruled out before a board is replaced, and a range that keeps heating while this code shows is switched off at the breaker.

Usually leads to

Knobs, switches and controls

Shows up as

Range Control Panel Not RespondingRange Error CodeRange Burner Won't Turn Off