

Start with what you own
Range
types,
told apart.
Two ranges can look the same across a kitchen and work nothing alike. A gas range burns fuel on top and in the oven, an electric one heats coils or ribbons under glass, a dual-fuel model keeps gas burners over an electric oven, and an induction range makes the pan itself hot. Knowing which one you own answers part of the repair question before anyone comes out.
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- 4 types
- Serviced in place
- What each one costs
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Four types,
each its own job.
Each one is built, reached and repaired differently. Open yours for what fails on it and what the work involves.
Gas range
Open flames on top and a gas-fired oven below, all fed by one supply line behind the range and lit by igniters rather than a match.
Electric range
Coil elements or radiant elements under a smooth glass top, with an electric oven below, all running on a dedicated 240-volt circuit.
Dual-fuel range
Gas burners on top and an electric oven below, the combination most professional-style ranges use, needing both a gas line and a 240-volt circuit.
Induction range
A glass top that heats the pan itself through copper coils and power boards, over an electric oven, with electronics doing almost all the work.
Not sure which you have?Start from what it is doing
If the range in your kitchen does not obviously match one of these, work from the symptom instead. It reaches the same answer from the other end.
17 problemsIn order of costWhat to check first Go to the problemsWhich one
is yours?
One look at the range usually settles it. The first sign of each type is on the right; its page has the rest, and what that type means for a repair.
Gas, electric or inductionGasGas range
Turning a knob on the range top produces a rapid ticking and a blue flame that you can see under the grate.
ElectricElectric range
There is no visible flame: the burners are metal spirals or glowing rings seen through a flat glass surface.
Dual-fuelDual-fuel range
The burners on top light with a flame, but there is no burner inside the oven: you see metal elements on the ceiling and often a fan at the back.
InductionInduction range
A zone set to high stays black, and the glass next to the pan is only warm to the touch.
What a repair
usually costs.
A useful way to weigh a range repair is to price the new range you would actually buy, not the cheapest one on the floor. A freestanding range is easier to swap than a built-in appliance, but a slide-in or pro-style model has to match the counter gap, the gas or electrical hookup and often the backsplash, and a new one can bring a gas fitter or an electrician along with it. That is why most igniter, element, sensor and hinge repairs are worth doing, and why replacement usually wins only when a board is no longer made, the glass top and a board fail together on an older range, or rust has reached the oven body.
| Repair | Relative cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Gas burner igniter, spark switch or burner head | low | Cleaning ports and reseating a cap costs almost nothing in parts. A new igniter, spark switch or burner head is a small part, and the spark module that feeds them all sits a little higher. |
| Surface element, switch or glass top | low to moderate | A coil, a receptacle or an infinite switch stays near the bottom. A radiant element under the glass is modest, while a whole new glass top is the part that carries this job toward the middle. |
| Bake or broil element | low | The most frequent part on an electric range oven. A hidden bake element under the floor panel adds some time, and scorched terminals behind the rear wall are replaced in the same visit. |
| Gas oven igniter, safety valve or burner | low to moderate | A weak igniter is the usual answer and sits at the low end. A safety valve or a broil burner costs more, and every opened gas joint is leak-tested before the job is closed. |
| Oven temperature sensor, thermostat or calibration | low | An offset adjustment needs no part. A replacement sensor is inexpensive; a capillary thermostat on a pro-style range takes longer to route and sits slightly higher. |
| Induction power board, coil or cooling fan | moderate to highest | A cooling fan or a pan sensor stays in the middle. A power board, or a board and a coil together on a premium induction range, is one of the costliest repairs a range takes. |
| Door hinges, gasket, glass or lock | low | A gasket or a pair of hinges is a short job. Door glass means taking the door apart, and a self-clean lock motor with its switches sits at the upper edge of this band. |
| Knobs, keypad or control board | moderate | A knob or a spark switch is minor. A keypad or ribbon cable lands in the middle, and a main control board, especially one that also runs the zones on top, is the priciest part in this row. |
| Convection fan, blade or ring element | low to moderate | A loose blade or a ring element stays near the low end. A motor reached only by sliding a heavy range out of its opening moves the job toward the middle of the scale. |
Questions about
the types.
How can I tell a dual-fuel range from an all-gas one?
Why does the kind of range matter for the repair?
Are induction ranges harder to repair?
What should I say about the installation when I book?
Back to your everyday
Let’s get your range working again.
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