Before you commit
Range
repair cost,
band by band.
Bands rather than prices, because the same repair costs differently on a freestanding unit and on a built-in. What does not change is the order — the cheap causes are also the common ones — or the rule that decides repair against replace.
Mon–Sat, 8am–8pm
- 9 priced jobs
- 4 bands
- Price in writing first
Book a visit
Three short steps, about a minute.
or call (844) 875-7576
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A range is priced after it has been run.
The scale on this page shows where range jobs usually land, never what yours will cost. A burner that will not light can be a wet igniter, a cracked electrode or a failing spark module; an oven that stays cold can be an element, a weak gas igniter, a sensor or a relay. None of that can be told apart from a description. A number offered before the range has been run and measured is a guess, or it is padded to cover the worst case. Here, the price follows the diagnosis and comes before any part is changed, and the decision to go ahead stays with you.
The bands, job by jobAsk at booking what the diagnostic visit costs and whether it counts toward the repair.
Expect the repair to be priced at the range, once the failed part is identified, with no work started until you agree.
If the range is not worth repairing, you hear that directly, and that advice is part of what the visit is for.
What a repair
usually costs.
A useful way to weigh a range repair is to price the new range you would actually buy, not the cheapest one on the floor. A freestanding range is easier to swap than a built-in appliance, but a slide-in or pro-style model has to match the counter gap, the gas or electrical hookup and often the backsplash, and a new one can bring a gas fitter or an electrician along with it. That is why most igniter, element, sensor and hinge repairs are worth doing, and why replacement usually wins only when a board is no longer made, the glass top and a board fail together on an older range, or rust has reached the oven body.
| Repair | Relative cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Gas burner igniter, spark switch or burner head | low | Cleaning ports and reseating a cap costs almost nothing in parts. A new igniter, spark switch or burner head is a small part, and the spark module that feeds them all sits a little higher. |
| Surface element, switch or glass top | low to moderate | A coil, a receptacle or an infinite switch stays near the bottom. A radiant element under the glass is modest, while a whole new glass top is the part that carries this job toward the middle. |
| Bake or broil element | low | The most frequent part on an electric range oven. A hidden bake element under the floor panel adds some time, and scorched terminals behind the rear wall are replaced in the same visit. |
| Gas oven igniter, safety valve or burner | low to moderate | A weak igniter is the usual answer and sits at the low end. A safety valve or a broil burner costs more, and every opened gas joint is leak-tested before the job is closed. |
| Oven temperature sensor, thermostat or calibration | low | An offset adjustment needs no part. A replacement sensor is inexpensive; a capillary thermostat on a pro-style range takes longer to route and sits slightly higher. |
| Induction power board, coil or cooling fan | moderate to highest | A cooling fan or a pan sensor stays in the middle. A power board, or a board and a coil together on a premium induction range, is one of the costliest repairs a range takes. |
| Door hinges, gasket, glass or lock | low | A gasket or a pair of hinges is a short job. Door glass means taking the door apart, and a self-clean lock motor with its switches sits at the upper edge of this band. |
| Knobs, keypad or control board | moderate | A knob or a spark switch is minor. A keypad or ribbon cable lands in the middle, and a main control board, especially one that also runs the zones on top, is the priciest part in this row. |
| Convection fan, blade or ring element | low to moderate | A loose blade or a ring element stays near the low end. A motor reached only by sliding a heavy range out of its opening moves the job toward the middle of the scale. |
What the diagnostic
visit covers.
The first visit decides what the repair actually is. The fee, and whether it is credited against the repair, is said when you book, before anyone comes out.
The diagnostic visitLighting every burner or starting every zone, and running the oven through bake and broil, so the technician sees exactly what works and what does not.
Checking the easy causes before any panel comes off: the gas shutoff, the breaker, burner caps, a control lock, the pan and the settings.
Measuring the likely parts, from igniters, elements and sensors to spark switches, relays and induction boards, rather than guessing from the symptom.
A plain account of the failed part, the work and the price, or honest advice that a new range is the better use of the money.
What moves
the price.
Five things decide where in its band a repair lands. None of them is known for certain until a technician has seen the range.
The typesGas, electric, dual-fuel or induction
Gas work centers on igniters, valves and burners and always ends with a leak check. Electric work centers on elements, switches and wiring. Dual-fuel ranges can need both, and induction ranges add power boards, coils and fans.
Freestanding, slide-in or pro-style
A freestanding range slides out easily when the back has to be reached. A slide-in fits tightly between counters, and a heavy pro-style range needs two people and floor protection before a rear panel can come off.
Which part failed
Igniters, elements, sensors, knobs, hinges and gaskets sit low on the scale. Glass tops, control boards and induction power boards sit higher, and heat damage can add a terminal or a wire to the same job.
The make, and how long its parts take
Parts for the common makes are stocked widely and often travel on the van. Imported and premium ranges can use costlier parts with longer waits, and a discontinued board can settle the repair-or-replace question on its own.
One visit or a return trip
A part that has to be ordered means coming back. The model and serial label is usually on the frame behind the oven door, under the range top or inside the storage drawer, and giving it when you book helps the right part arrive the first time.
Not every range
breaks the same way.
A gas range lights its burners with a spark, an electric one heats coils or elements under a smooth glass top, a dual-fuel range pairs gas burners with an electric oven, and an induction range heats the pan itself through a magnetic field. Find the one in your kitchen.
All range types
Gas range
Open flames on top and a gas-fired oven below, all fed by one supply line behind the range and lit by igniters rather than a match.
Electric range
Coil elements or radiant elements under a smooth glass top, with an electric oven below, all running on a dedicated 240-volt circuit.
Dual-fuel range
Gas burners on top and an electric oven below, the combination most professional-style ranges use, needing both a gas line and a 240-volt circuit.
Induction range
A glass top that heats the pan itself through copper coils and power boards, over an electric oven, with electronics doing almost all the work.
Every kind we serviceAll ranges, side by side
The archive puts the 4 types against each other: how to tell which you own, what fails on each, and which manufacturers build them.
How to tell yoursWhat fails on eachWho makes them Open the type archive
Questions about
the price.
What does the range diagnostic visit cost?
Why are the costs shown as bands and not exact amounts?
After the diagnosis, do I have to go ahead with the repair?
Can the price go up partway through the repair?
Back to your everyday
Let’s get your range working again.
Three short steps online, or one call. Tell us what you are seeing and pick a window that works.